Sunday, May 5, 2013

KARNAK AND LUXOR TEMPLES

Saturday, May 4th
     Safaga was the end of another segment of our cruise so today most people got off the ship and new ones arrived.  Regent came up with an optional excursion for the people like us who were staying on.  Most excursions on Regent are complimentary but there was a $129 per person charge for this one.  It consisted of a 3 1/2 hour bus ride through the eastern desert of Egypt to Luxor (ancient Thebes) to see the ancient ruins of the Temples of Karnak and Luxor.  They were built around 1500BC and are 3 km (roughly 2 mile) apart.  They were connect by a road lined on both sides with 2000 small sphinx.  The temples and road were covered by sand over the centuries.  Archaeologists are still very actively unearthing the ruins here.  It was to be a very long day for us but figured we better go as I doubt we will ever return to Egypt.
     As you all know Egypt is going through a transition.  They elected a new president and will be electing a parliament and writing a new constitution this summer.  Our guide talked for an hour about how past corrupt presidents and lawmakers has ruined Egypt.  It is bankrupt.  The new Muslim Brotherhood is very radical and she said the ignorant people in Egypt elected them.  Now they can't figure out how to get rid of them with bloodshed in the streets.  She said 4 million Egyptians made a living from tourism.  Now tourism is DEAD.  We drove past hundreds of Nile river cruise boats parked and no tourists who will come here.  Egypt's only government income came from the Suez Canal and tourism.  No tourism now so the $15 million per day they get from the canal fees is all they get.  From what little we saw, the people are really hurting.  Most work in other countries and send money back to their families living here.  Roads were terrible as they do not have money to repair them.  I guess the USA will send money.  Just what I want to do as a taxpayer.
     An interesting part of our guide's talk on the way to Luxor was her description of the bedouin people of Egypt.  These are the tribes of people (60,000 of them) who live in tents in the huge expanse of the eastern desert.  The tents are made by them from the weaving of camel and goat hair.  I believe she said the roof was made from goat hair as it is rain proof.  It does rain here but rarely.  If it rains hard they have a problem with flash flooding.  They are nomadic so can pack up the tent and move if water runs out or for whatever reason.  Most now do have vehicles but they can get all their possessions on the back of a camel if need be.  The men raise camels and the women and children herd sheep and goats.  Although our guide said they make a lot of money now smuggling drugs and arms across the desert.  Each tribe has its own boundaries and it is THEIR land.  The government will not mess with them but will negotiate with them if they want to do a project on their land.  The tribes have their own laws.  Fines are levied by number of camels not money.  If a man kills a a man from another tribe, his fine will be 200 camels.  If a woman or child is killed, the fine increases to 500 or 600 camels.  Why the difference?  Well, they say a man can defend himself and a woman or child cannot. Marriage is arranged.  A man MUST marry one of his cousins!  Yes, they have a problem with birth defects due to this inbreeding.  They usually have 4 to 8 children.  Boy children are essential and grounds for divorce if the woman cannot bare one.  (Like it's her fault-wrong!)  A bedouin must marry another bedouin.  No exceptions.  Camels are VERY important to them.  A person's wealth is judged by the number of camels he owns.  They generally do not eat meat, even the goats or sheep.  They use the camel's milk however.  They eat only breakfast, then dinner at sunset.  Breakfast is coffee and a date.  Dinner is rice and vegetables.  Ok, I can't be a bedouin!!  Our guide showed us examples of their medicines.  All made from flowers or plants found in the desert.  They even have one for piles due to riding camels.  By the way, a camel can go without water for 20 days in the desert.
     After another 3 1/2 hour drive, we got back to the ship at 6pm.  They were in the middle of the life boat safety drill for the new passengers.  Glad we missed that.  The heat of the day had really beat us down.  We were tired but showered and went up for dinner in Sette Mari.  I managed to get these photos loaded on this posting last night but had to do writing after returning from my 5 hour tour this morning.  We are back in Aqaba for the day.  This is so the new passengers can experience Petra.  I (Rebecca stayed on the ship) went to Wadi Rum (Lawrence of Arabia fought in this desert area).  Will load those photos after publishing this post for you.
                           At port of Safaga, Egypt, which is closest port to Luxor and Cario.

                                             Beautiful morning sailing into Safaga.





 On bus for our 3 hour ride to Luxor.  Crossed mountain range then into huge desert of east Egypt.  Nothing for 3 hours so no toilet stops.  Glad I skipped the morning coffee!!
             Load of horses.  Horses not found much in desert though.  Camels are king here.




 One of about 10 military check points we passed.  Did not have to stop at them.  About 5 rag-tag looking soldiers manning them.
 As we got near the Nile irrigation was used to raise sugar cane, wheat, cotton.  Farms were very small as government took land from wealthy and gave everyone 5 acres.  Now that has been further divided by the families.  No machinery due to small farms so I saw wheat being harvested like it was when I was very small boy back in mid 50's.
                                                        Coming into Luxor.
 Taking sugar cane to the "government" refinery.  Farmers have to sell their crops to the government.  As a result they get low prices for it.  This country is really screwed up.  Our guide gave us her views and not good.
 These "spinx" were just recently unearthed by archaeologist.  They were buried under houses so government bought the houses and let archaeologists reclaim them.  They are still in process of doing it. These lined the 2 mile road between the two temples:  Karnak and Luxor.
                                                Nile River, the longest river in the world.
 Mock up display of Karnak Temple.  The temple was built around 1500BC.  Over the centuries it was covered with sand and rediscovered and archaeologists are still working today to unearth all of it.

Walking toward front of the temple.  Remember these are remains from 3500 years ago.
 I did not stay with the guide and tour group to listen to her.  Figured I would forget what she was saying an hour later so just took off and snapped photos.  This temple was used to worship their "god" during the day. The priests (80,000 of them) left the temple at night.  They did not live in it, just worked there.
 The sun was beating down on the stone blocks of the temple raising the temperature from 104 degrees up to around 120F.  Very little shade in here also so was a very hot time here.

 These spinx lined way to enter temple.  As you see lots of body parts, mainly heads, missing now.

             Lots of hieroglyphics carved in most of the sandstone walls, columns, and rooms.





















































                                                              Outer wall






























                                          Now driving to a 5 star hotel for buffet lunch,



After lunch we toured "Luxor Temple".  It was smaller and not as well preserved.  The University of Chicago archaeologists were still unearthing the ancient ruins.
         This is, again, the 2 mile "avenue" between Karnak and Luxor Temples lines with sphinx.

Again I took off and took photos on my own while guide led group through.











































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